Electric Generator's Basic Principles!
Going shopping for an electric generator can be a daunting task for many people. Everyone
Seems to have their own ideas as to what is the best type of electric generator to buy. There are an enormous amount of makes and models now available, all vying for your money with
attractive colors, housings and price tags. Considering that for a large number of people the
electric generator is going to provide emergency or stand-by power, it is important to walk away from the deal with confidence and peace of mind that the correct decision has been made.
These are key factors that you must consider, which will help simplify the selection process.
1. How much electric power do you require? This of course is where you start from. There is no point in going out and purchasing an electric generator and hope that it is going to produce enough power for all your needs. Although you would be surprised at how many people do exactly that. First you need to determine which electrical devices you need to run and then add up the number of watts hat are required to run them - this will be shown either on manufacturer's labels or accompanying manuals. You also need to determine if they have a starting wattage requirement, such as a refrigerator. If they do, then use this reading instead. Once you have added all these together this will be the minimum wattage your electric generator will need to produce. It is always a good idea to add an extra 20 - 25% to give you some extra leeway
2. Diesel, gasoline, LP or natural gas? There are an enormous amount of gasoline electric generators on the market now which offer great warranties and are perfectly suited for small business, recreation, and emergency use. One thing that should be remembered with them is that they are not usually designed to work for long periods of time under load. If this is what you require of your electric generator then diesel would be a far better option. It is worth considering a diesel electric generator if you are looking for a prime power source. These are more fuel efficient and dependable.
3. Brand name? Recognized brand names which have a good reputation are best. You will have easy access to service centers, support and parts. Yamaha, Honda and Briggs and Stratton are well named brands who produce many different models of electric generator.
4. Emergency shutdown? There are some features that are very desirable on an electric generator which can mean the difference between a seized engine to one that has automatically shut itself down. Low oil shutdown is one of the most important ones and it is activated when the oil level drops below a safe operating level.
Times have changed and more and more people are finding that the electric generator brings them security, convenience and much peace of mind.
Courtesy- indieselgenerators.com
Sunday, September 16, 2007
SOLAR ELECTRICITY
HAVE YOU EVER THOUGHT ABOUT SOLAR ELECTRICITY, THAT IS, ELECTRICITY FROM THE SUN?
IN AFRICA THESE IS NOT PREDOMINANT DESPITE THE AVAILABLE AND ABUNDANT SOLAR RESOURCES, BUT SOLAR ELECTRICITY IS A VIABLE ALTERNATIVE TO CONVENTIONAL POWER SUPPLY.
HOW DO WE GET SOLAR ELECTRICITY?-
Using solar power to produce electricity is not the same as using solar to produce heat. Solar thermal principles are applied to produce hot fluids or air. Photovoltaic principles are used to produce electricity.
A solar panel (PV panel) is made of the natural element, silicon, which becomes charged electrically when subjected to sun light.
Solar panels are directed at solar south in the northern hemisphere and solar north in the southern hemisphere (these are slightly different than magnetic compass north-south directions) at an angle dictated by the geographic location and latitude of where they are to be installed.
This electrical charge is consolidated in the PV panel and directed to the output terminals to produce low voltage (Direct Current) - usually 6 to 24 volts. The most common output is intended for nominal 12volts, with an effective output usually up to 17 volts. A 12 volt nominal output is the reference voltage, but the operating voltage can be 17 volts or higher much like your car alternator charges your 12 volt battery at well over 12 volts. So there's a difference between the reference voltage and the actual operating voltage.
Let’s consider some fallacies about the solar cells
1. PV is too costly and will never compete with "the big boys" of power generation. Besides, you can never get the energy out that it takes to produce the system.
The cost of producing PV modules, in constant dollars, has fallen from as much as $50 per peak watt in 1980 to as little as $3 per peak watt today. This causes PV electricity costs to drop 15¢-25¢ per kilowatt hour (kWh), which is competitive in many applications
2. Solar electricity cannot serve any significant fraction of world electricity needs.
PV technology can meet electricity demand on any scale. The solar energy resource in a 100-mile-square area of Nevada could supply the United States with all its electricity (about 800 gigawatts) using modestly efficient (10%) commercial PV modules.
3. Solar electricity can do everything — right now!
No way. Solar electricity will eventually become a major player in the world's energy portfolio. The industry just doesn't have the capacity to meet all demands right now. But assuming that the proper investments are made now and are sustained, the industry will become significant in the next few decades.
4. Photovoltaic is a polluting industry.
The PV industry is neither "squeaky clean" nor a major environmental, safety, or health problem. When it comes to emissions, PV's electricity-generating portion of the fuel cycle is the clear winner versus fossil fuel sources.
Watch out for more details in subsequent posts, but if you need more details, please contact me. I would be showcasing some inverters in the maeket shortly and the price ranges. I will also be comming up with some special packages on inverters and others very soon.
IN AFRICA THESE IS NOT PREDOMINANT DESPITE THE AVAILABLE AND ABUNDANT SOLAR RESOURCES, BUT SOLAR ELECTRICITY IS A VIABLE ALTERNATIVE TO CONVENTIONAL POWER SUPPLY.
HOW DO WE GET SOLAR ELECTRICITY?-
Using solar power to produce electricity is not the same as using solar to produce heat. Solar thermal principles are applied to produce hot fluids or air. Photovoltaic principles are used to produce electricity.
A solar panel (PV panel) is made of the natural element, silicon, which becomes charged electrically when subjected to sun light.
Solar panels are directed at solar south in the northern hemisphere and solar north in the southern hemisphere (these are slightly different than magnetic compass north-south directions) at an angle dictated by the geographic location and latitude of where they are to be installed.
This electrical charge is consolidated in the PV panel and directed to the output terminals to produce low voltage (Direct Current) - usually 6 to 24 volts. The most common output is intended for nominal 12volts, with an effective output usually up to 17 volts. A 12 volt nominal output is the reference voltage, but the operating voltage can be 17 volts or higher much like your car alternator charges your 12 volt battery at well over 12 volts. So there's a difference between the reference voltage and the actual operating voltage.
Let’s consider some fallacies about the solar cells
1. PV is too costly and will never compete with "the big boys" of power generation. Besides, you can never get the energy out that it takes to produce the system.
The cost of producing PV modules, in constant dollars, has fallen from as much as $50 per peak watt in 1980 to as little as $3 per peak watt today. This causes PV electricity costs to drop 15¢-25¢ per kilowatt hour (kWh), which is competitive in many applications
2. Solar electricity cannot serve any significant fraction of world electricity needs.
PV technology can meet electricity demand on any scale. The solar energy resource in a 100-mile-square area of Nevada could supply the United States with all its electricity (about 800 gigawatts) using modestly efficient (10%) commercial PV modules.
3. Solar electricity can do everything — right now!
No way. Solar electricity will eventually become a major player in the world's energy portfolio. The industry just doesn't have the capacity to meet all demands right now. But assuming that the proper investments are made now and are sustained, the industry will become significant in the next few decades.
4. Photovoltaic is a polluting industry.
The PV industry is neither "squeaky clean" nor a major environmental, safety, or health problem. When it comes to emissions, PV's electricity-generating portion of the fuel cycle is the clear winner versus fossil fuel sources.
Watch out for more details in subsequent posts, but if you need more details, please contact me. I would be showcasing some inverters in the maeket shortly and the price ranges. I will also be comming up with some special packages on inverters and others very soon.
YOUR INVERTER'S BATTERY
We can not really talk about the inverter without talking about the battery which powers it (though in some application we shall be seeing later, this may not be necessary). Here are tips you need to know about the battery
HOW LONG CAN MY BATTERY POWER THE INVERTER?
As how long as you want your load to run? The load to be supported by the inverter can be determined. After this is known, specific calculations can be made to determine the proper battery bank size.
WHAT TYPES OF BATTERIES ARE APPROPRIATE FOR MY INVERTERS?
There are two principal types of batteries: starting and deep-discharge. Batteries can be either sealed or non-sealed (vented).
Deep discharge types
The battery types recommended for use in an inverter system are: Flooded Lead Acid
(FLA), Sealed Gel Cells (GEL), Sealed Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM); and alkaline types
such as Nickel-iron (NiFe) and Nickel-Cadmium (NiCad).
Starting Automotive (starting) batteries
Are designed to provide high starting current for short periods of time and are not appropriate for inverter applications.
Deep-cycle Flooded Lead Acid (FLA)
Description- A flooded lead acid battery is designed to be deep-discharged before being recharged, making it suitable for inverter applications. Flooded batteries require periodic maintenance consisting mainly of adding distilled water to the cells.
Sealed Batteries (Gel and AGM)
Description- Gel Cell and Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries are sealed and do not require the addition of distilled water. Since these batteries are valve regulated, over-charging can
cause irreversible damage.
NiCad and NiFe Batteries
These types of batteries can be used but may not be the best for your inverter for the
following reasons:
• Alkaline batteries, such as NiCad and NiFe types, have a nominal cell voltage of 1.2
volts per cell, whereas most inverters and battery chargers are optimized for use with lead acid
batteries having a nominal 2.0 volts per cell (that is, 12 cells for a 24-volt system and
24 cells for a 48-volt system).
• Alkaline batteries require a higher charge voltage to fully recharge, and drop to a
lower voltage during discharge compared to a similarly sized lead-acid type battery.
Battery Capacity Ratings
Amp-hour capacity-
Every deep cycle battery has a capacity which is measured in amp hours. Amp hours are a measure of current flow over time. An amp-hour figure is derived simply by multiplying
current (amperes) by the amount of time the current flows (hours) andare frequently referred to by the abbreviations A-h
As how long as you want your load to run? The load to be supported by the inverter can be determined. After this is known, specific calculations can be made to determine the proper battery bank size.
WHAT TYPES OF BATTERIES ARE APPROPRIATE FOR MY INVERTERS?
There are two principal types of batteries: starting and deep-discharge. Batteries can be either sealed or non-sealed (vented).
Deep discharge types
The battery types recommended for use in an inverter system are: Flooded Lead Acid
(FLA), Sealed Gel Cells (GEL), Sealed Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM); and alkaline types
such as Nickel-iron (NiFe) and Nickel-Cadmium (NiCad).
Starting Automotive (starting) batteries
Are designed to provide high starting current for short periods of time and are not appropriate for inverter applications.
Deep-cycle Flooded Lead Acid (FLA)
Description- A flooded lead acid battery is designed to be deep-discharged before being recharged, making it suitable for inverter applications. Flooded batteries require periodic maintenance consisting mainly of adding distilled water to the cells.
Sealed Batteries (Gel and AGM)
Description- Gel Cell and Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries are sealed and do not require the addition of distilled water. Since these batteries are valve regulated, over-charging can
cause irreversible damage.
NiCad and NiFe Batteries
These types of batteries can be used but may not be the best for your inverter for the
following reasons:
• Alkaline batteries, such as NiCad and NiFe types, have a nominal cell voltage of 1.2
volts per cell, whereas most inverters and battery chargers are optimized for use with lead acid
batteries having a nominal 2.0 volts per cell (that is, 12 cells for a 24-volt system and
24 cells for a 48-volt system).
• Alkaline batteries require a higher charge voltage to fully recharge, and drop to a
lower voltage during discharge compared to a similarly sized lead-acid type battery.
Battery Capacity Ratings
Amp-hour capacity-
Every deep cycle battery has a capacity which is measured in amp hours. Amp hours are a measure of current flow over time. An amp-hour figure is derived simply by multiplying
current (amperes) by the amount of time the current flows (hours) andare frequently referred to by the abbreviations A-h
Discharge rate
Deep cycle batteries have their amp-hour rating expressed as "at the x-hour rate". This is
an average rate of current flow that would take x number of hours to discharge the
batteries. Common amp-hour figures are at the 6-hour rate, the 20-hour rate and the 100-
hour rate. A battery is classified as having fewer amp-hours if is being discharged at a
faster rate, such as the 6-hour rate. There is an inevitable amount of heat associated with
the flow of current through a battery. The higher the amount of current, the greater the
amount of heat generated. The heat is energy which is no longer available to the battery to
power loads. Hence, at a higher discharge rate, the batteries effectively have fewer amp
hours available. Generally the 20-hour rate is the most common one.
CCA rating-Starting batteries are rated in CCA (Cold Cranking Amps), or other types of "cranking
amps". This expresses battery capacity in terms of its ability to provide large amounts of
current instantaneously to start an engine. It has no time factor, such as hours, taken into
account. This is one reason that starting batteries are not appropriate for inverter systems.
However, batteries such as marine starting batteries, are rated in both CCA and amp
hours. This type is appropriate.
Running time and size
The battery bank’s size determines the length of time the inverter can supply AC output
power. The larger the bank, the longer the inverter can run and the longer the recharge
time.
Depth of discharge. In general, the battery bank should be designed so the batteries do not discharge more than 50% of their capacity on a regular basis. Discharging up to 80% is acceptable on a limited basis, such as a prolonged utility outage. Totally discharging a battery can reduce its effective life or permanently damage it.
Deep cycle batteries have their amp-hour rating expressed as "at the x-hour rate". This is
an average rate of current flow that would take x number of hours to discharge the
batteries. Common amp-hour figures are at the 6-hour rate, the 20-hour rate and the 100-
hour rate. A battery is classified as having fewer amp-hours if is being discharged at a
faster rate, such as the 6-hour rate. There is an inevitable amount of heat associated with
the flow of current through a battery. The higher the amount of current, the greater the
amount of heat generated. The heat is energy which is no longer available to the battery to
power loads. Hence, at a higher discharge rate, the batteries effectively have fewer amp
hours available. Generally the 20-hour rate is the most common one.
CCA rating-Starting batteries are rated in CCA (Cold Cranking Amps), or other types of "cranking
amps". This expresses battery capacity in terms of its ability to provide large amounts of
current instantaneously to start an engine. It has no time factor, such as hours, taken into
account. This is one reason that starting batteries are not appropriate for inverter systems.
However, batteries such as marine starting batteries, are rated in both CCA and amp
hours. This type is appropriate.
Running time and size
The battery bank’s size determines the length of time the inverter can supply AC output
power. The larger the bank, the longer the inverter can run and the longer the recharge
time.
Depth of discharge. In general, the battery bank should be designed so the batteries do not discharge more than 50% of their capacity on a regular basis. Discharging up to 80% is acceptable on a limited basis, such as a prolonged utility outage. Totally discharging a battery can reduce its effective life or permanently damage it.
Battery Configurations
The battery bank must be wired to match the inverter’s DC input voltage specifications. In
addition, the batteries can be wired to provide additional run time. The various wiring
configurations are:
The battery bank must be wired to match the inverter’s DC input voltage specifications. In
addition, the batteries can be wired to provide additional run time. The various wiring
configurations are:
1. Series Wiring batteries in series increases the total bank output voltage. This voltage MUST
match the DC requirements of the inverter or inverter and/or battery damage may occur.
2. Parallel Wiring the batteries in parallel increases the total run time the batteries can operate the AC loads. The more batteries connected in parallel the longer the loads can be powered from
the inverter.
3. Series-Parallel Series-parallel configurations increase both the battery voltage (to match the inverter’s DC requirements) and run-time for operating the AC loads. This voltage must match the DC requirements of the inverter.
match the DC requirements of the inverter or inverter and/or battery damage may occur.
2. Parallel Wiring the batteries in parallel increases the total run time the batteries can operate the AC loads. The more batteries connected in parallel the longer the loads can be powered from
the inverter.
3. Series-Parallel Series-parallel configurations increase both the battery voltage (to match the inverter’s DC requirements) and run-time for operating the AC loads. This voltage must match the DC requirements of the inverter.
Wednesday, August 22, 2007
Do you need an inverter
Having gone through the load estimation in the previous posts, I want to continue with the alternatives.
I start with an indepth treament of the Power Inverter and will be showcasing available product types
What is an inverter?
An inverter is a device that takes the power from your DC battery source and through certain electronic circuitsconverts it to household AC electricity providing you the power to run appliances such as televisions, lights, computers, and power tools wherever you may be. Simply, an inverterboosts your 12/24/48 volt battery power to 110/240 AC power.
Mode of operation
An inverter boosts your DC power 10 to 20 times by switching the power to create pulses of electricity in AC. This switching process is generally done by high frequency electronic components called power mosfets.
There are two forms of electric wave output generated by an inverter, pure or true sine wave and modified sine wave viz PureSine and Modified sine wave
Pure Sine wave is the same as the power you have in your home. It is very clean and is the best for performance.This smooth pure sine wave is most efficient. Therefore, appliances such as TVs, computers and stereos run cleaner and easier. Also, Pure Sine wave generates less heat than other waveforms.
Modified Sine wave output tries to imitate pure sine waves but comes up a little short. Nevertheless, modified sine wave inverters have their advantages which include ability to run appliances and equipment such as power tools, non-digital microwave oven, lights, and other motor driven loads.
The main demerit to modified sine wave output is slight interference. This interference can be seen on some televisions and computers. It will not cause any damage, but can be a little annoying.However modified sine wave inverters will run most appliances, and are very affordable.
What determines my choice?
Your load. If you want to run a 800-watt machine, a 250-watt inverter will not do the job. When choosing an inverter determine what you want to run and then get the inverter that delivers the appropriate power you need. Most appliances have their power rating printed on them or their packaging. A simple equation to help determine the power you need is as follows:
Volts (110/230) x Amps = Wattage
Will it run my batteries dead?
Running an inverter certainly takes power from your batteries, Once your battery drops to certain point the inverter should give an alarm to let the user know battery power is getting low. If the inverter continues to operate, drawing more power, some designs will turn itself off to ensure you have enough power in your battery . It is important to note that to get the best performance from an inverter a good battery source is needed.
For more details, contact me
POWER SYSTEMS ENGINEER
ojoadebiyi@gmail.com
2348053622442
I start with an indepth treament of the Power Inverter and will be showcasing available product types
What is an inverter?
An inverter is a device that takes the power from your DC battery source and through certain electronic circuitsconverts it to household AC electricity providing you the power to run appliances such as televisions, lights, computers, and power tools wherever you may be. Simply, an inverterboosts your 12/24/48 volt battery power to 110/240 AC power.
Mode of operation
An inverter boosts your DC power 10 to 20 times by switching the power to create pulses of electricity in AC. This switching process is generally done by high frequency electronic components called power mosfets.
There are two forms of electric wave output generated by an inverter, pure or true sine wave and modified sine wave viz PureSine and Modified sine wave
Pure Sine wave is the same as the power you have in your home. It is very clean and is the best for performance.This smooth pure sine wave is most efficient. Therefore, appliances such as TVs, computers and stereos run cleaner and easier. Also, Pure Sine wave generates less heat than other waveforms.
Modified Sine wave output tries to imitate pure sine waves but comes up a little short. Nevertheless, modified sine wave inverters have their advantages which include ability to run appliances and equipment such as power tools, non-digital microwave oven, lights, and other motor driven loads.
The main demerit to modified sine wave output is slight interference. This interference can be seen on some televisions and computers. It will not cause any damage, but can be a little annoying.However modified sine wave inverters will run most appliances, and are very affordable.
What determines my choice?
Your load. If you want to run a 800-watt machine, a 250-watt inverter will not do the job. When choosing an inverter determine what you want to run and then get the inverter that delivers the appropriate power you need. Most appliances have their power rating printed on them or their packaging. A simple equation to help determine the power you need is as follows:
Volts (110/230) x Amps = Wattage
Will it run my batteries dead?
Running an inverter certainly takes power from your batteries, Once your battery drops to certain point the inverter should give an alarm to let the user know battery power is getting low. If the inverter continues to operate, drawing more power, some designs will turn itself off to ensure you have enough power in your battery . It is important to note that to get the best performance from an inverter a good battery source is needed.
For more details, contact me
POWER SYSTEMS ENGINEER
ojoadebiyi@gmail.com
2348053622442
Friday, August 17, 2007
How much electricity?
Naturally, electrical usage will vary from model to model, so remember that the table in the last posts are just to guide with approximated estimates. But now that you know how to find out how much electricity things use (from the previous post), it's best to make your own table. Remember that the maximum amount of electricity your appliance uses will be printed on the appliance! (BUT do not forget the points noted in that post.)
Appliances with capabilities of creatingor removing heat use the most electricity. In the table below, appliances that make things hot are listed in red and ones that make things cold are listed in blue. As you can see, together they dwarf everything else on the list.
5000 watts Electric oven
5000 watts Clothes dryer (electric)
3800 watts Water heater (electric)
3500 watts Central Air Conditioner (2.5 tons)
1500 watts Microwave oven
1500 watts Toaster (four-slot)
900 watts Coffee maker
800 watts Range burner
500-1440 watts Window unit air conditioner
200-700 watts Refrigerator
60-100 watts Light bulb (energy hog because houses have lots of lights, and it's
easy to leave them on when they're not being used)
Fans 100 watts Floor fan or box fan (high speed) 15-95 watts Ceiling fan (Bigger fans and faster speeds use more energy.
140-330 watts Desktop Computer & 17" CRT monitor 1-20 watts Desktop Computer & Monitor (in sleep mode)
120 watts 17" CRT monitor
40 watts 17" LCD monitor
45 watts Laptop computer
Other 60-100 watts Regular light bulb
4-165 watts Video game (While playing game, 30W for PS2, 70W for XBox, and 165W for XBox 360.
55-90 watts 19" television 18 watts Compact fluorescent light bulb 4 watts Clock radio
Here are some basic strategy you can use in cutting down on your electricity usuage
(1) Use space heaters to heat only the rooms you're in, rather than a central system that heats the whole house, and turning off the heat when you're not home.
(2) Use ceiling fans instead of the air conditioner if you don't already have ceiling fans
(3) Use a clothesline or a laundry rack instead of a dryer
(4a) Wash laundry in cold water instead of hot
(4b) Wash laundry in warm water instead of hot
(5) Use a spin dryer to dry your clothes
(6) Replace regular light bulbs with compact fluorescents
(7) Sleep your computer when you're not using it
Aggressive Strategies
(8) Replace 1990 fridge with 2004 model
(9) Replace a CRT computer monitor in a home office with an LCD display
RESOURCEShttp://michaelbluejay.com/http://www.generatorsales.com/
Appliances with capabilities of creatingor removing heat use the most electricity. In the table below, appliances that make things hot are listed in red and ones that make things cold are listed in blue. As you can see, together they dwarf everything else on the list.
5000 watts Electric oven
5000 watts Clothes dryer (electric)
3800 watts Water heater (electric)
3500 watts Central Air Conditioner (2.5 tons)
1500 watts Microwave oven
1500 watts Toaster (four-slot)
900 watts Coffee maker
800 watts Range burner
500-1440 watts Window unit air conditioner
200-700 watts Refrigerator
60-100 watts Light bulb (energy hog because houses have lots of lights, and it's
easy to leave them on when they're not being used)
Fans 100 watts Floor fan or box fan (high speed) 15-95 watts Ceiling fan (Bigger fans and faster speeds use more energy.
140-330 watts Desktop Computer & 17" CRT monitor 1-20 watts Desktop Computer & Monitor (in sleep mode)
120 watts 17" CRT monitor
40 watts 17" LCD monitor
45 watts Laptop computer
Other 60-100 watts Regular light bulb
4-165 watts Video game (While playing game, 30W for PS2, 70W for XBox, and 165W for XBox 360.
55-90 watts 19" television 18 watts Compact fluorescent light bulb 4 watts Clock radio
calculate how much a given appliance is costing you per month or per year.
Of course, knowing that your refrigerator uses, say, 500 watts when the compressor's on doesn't tell you how much energy it uses in a month, because the compressor's not on 24/7.Here are some basic strategy you can use in cutting down on your electricity usuage
(1) Use space heaters to heat only the rooms you're in, rather than a central system that heats the whole house, and turning off the heat when you're not home.
(2) Use ceiling fans instead of the air conditioner if you don't already have ceiling fans
(3) Use a clothesline or a laundry rack instead of a dryer
(4a) Wash laundry in cold water instead of hot
(4b) Wash laundry in warm water instead of hot
(5) Use a spin dryer to dry your clothes
(6) Replace regular light bulbs with compact fluorescents
(7) Sleep your computer when you're not using it
Aggressive Strategies
(8) Replace 1990 fridge with 2004 model
(9) Replace a CRT computer monitor in a home office with an LCD display
RESOURCEShttp://michaelbluejay.com/http://www.generatorsales.com/
Can I find out how much electricity my equipment uses?
If the truth must be told, the cost of electricity is very high and most of the state-owned utility cannot realy be efficient if they keep on operating a low-tarrif regime. Had it been that people are realy made to pay for the real cost in a country like Nigeria, most of the wastages being experienced in the midst of acute shortage would have been curtailed.
Before we can begin to talk of viable and economical alternatives to conventional supply, we must take a cursory look at our individual electricity consumption, with a view to finding means for reduction before we undertake to provide credible alternatives, this I also believe would also make everyone appreciate and fully utilze the benefits inherent in Electricity Prepaid Metering
So how do you know the amount of electricty you consume. The shortcut is to just look at the label which also carries the name plate! Almost everything you can plug into the wall has such label that says how much electricity it uses. (It may be printed directly into the plastic or metal.) You may have to hunt for the label. It's often located on the bottom or side of the device, or possibly where the power cord enters the unit. If the device is powered with an
AC/DC adapter, the electrical rating is usually listed on the adapter itself.
If the label only gives the number of amps and not the number of watts, you can calculate the watt by multiplying the amps by 240v to get the number of watts. (Amps x Volts = Watts, England, Nigeria and other countries use 240 volts instead of 120v while most U.S. electricity is 120 volts. So a hot plate that uses 6 amps uses 6 x 240 = 1440 watts. If you are in the US or you appliance is powered by a step-down transformer of 240/120v , use 120 in
your calculations.) Note that if a device is powered by a converter (one of those great big plugs), then the converter has converted the electricity from AC to DC, so you need to multiply by the DC voltage, not the AC voltage of 120.
For example, if the device says "INPUT 8V, 0.5A", then that's 8 volts x 0.5 amps = 4.0 watts. You may have noticed that appliances may be labeled 110, 240 or 415 volts. Appliances are actually designed to accept a range of
voltages, between 110-415 volts, and the exact voltage coming out of your electrical socket can vary depending on conditions at the power plant and in your own home. Let's just agree that when we say 240 volts, we understand that it's actually a range from
220-240. And just use 240 for your calculations (except in the US other 120-volt countries).
Don't rely on these results without understanding the limitations. For example, your computer might use more or less electricity than my computer.
RESOURCES
http://michaelbluejay.com/
http://www.generatorsales.com/
Before we can begin to talk of viable and economical alternatives to conventional supply, we must take a cursory look at our individual electricity consumption, with a view to finding means for reduction before we undertake to provide credible alternatives, this I also believe would also make everyone appreciate and fully utilze the benefits inherent in Electricity Prepaid Metering
So how do you know the amount of electricty you consume. The shortcut is to just look at the label which also carries the name plate! Almost everything you can plug into the wall has such label that says how much electricity it uses. (It may be printed directly into the plastic or metal.) You may have to hunt for the label. It's often located on the bottom or side of the device, or possibly where the power cord enters the unit. If the device is powered with an
AC/DC adapter, the electrical rating is usually listed on the adapter itself.
If the label only gives the number of amps and not the number of watts, you can calculate the watt by multiplying the amps by 240v to get the number of watts. (Amps x Volts = Watts, England, Nigeria and other countries use 240 volts instead of 120v while most U.S. electricity is 120 volts. So a hot plate that uses 6 amps uses 6 x 240 = 1440 watts. If you are in the US or you appliance is powered by a step-down transformer of 240/120v , use 120 in
your calculations.) Note that if a device is powered by a converter (one of those great big plugs), then the converter has converted the electricity from AC to DC, so you need to multiply by the DC voltage, not the AC voltage of 120.
For example, if the device says "INPUT 8V, 0.5A", then that's 8 volts x 0.5 amps = 4.0 watts. You may have noticed that appliances may be labeled 110, 240 or 415 volts. Appliances are actually designed to accept a range of
voltages, between 110-415 volts, and the exact voltage coming out of your electrical socket can vary depending on conditions at the power plant and in your own home. Let's just agree that when we say 240 volts, we understand that it's actually a range from
220-240. And just use 240 for your calculations (except in the US other 120-volt countries).
- Please also note that
The amount of electricity listed on the label is the maximum amount that the appliance will ever use. For example, a 300-watt refrigerator will only run at 300 watts when the compressor's running (which is when it makes that humming sound, indicating that it's actually chilling the air inside). Most of the time the fridge just sits there, using only 5 watts or so for its electronics. If the amount of work done by a device varies up and down, then so does its energy use. (e.g., a stereo that can be turned up or down, an oven that can be set at various temperatures, a fridge that sometimes runs and sometimes doesn't, a computer that sometimes spins its various drives and sometimes has to use more of its brainpower, etc.) The label on computers is particularly useless; a computer labeled
at 200 watts probably uses only about 65. - Many consumer items are advertised according to their power output, not input. That means the stereo that says 40 watts on the box might actually require 55 watts to make 40 watts of sound (assuming the volume setting was set to highest), and your 900-watt microwave oven might actually use 1500 watts (on its highest setting). That's because all electrical devices are inefficient - they have to use some extra energy to do what they do.
- Knowing how much electricity a device uses at a given moment doesn't tell you how much it's using in a month, because it's probably not running 24/7 (and if it is running 24/7 like a fridge, it's probably not using the maximum amount of electricity, as we discussed earlier).
- Some devices use a small amount of electricity even when they're not on. For example, VCR's and microwaves draw a small amount to power the time display. This amount is often 5 watts or less. Devices which run off transformers also draw a small amount of power. And of course, electricity consumption of a device varies from brand to brand, and condition to condition.
You can calculate your electricity consumption using the table below
Calculate your electric cost
Device /WattageCalculate your electric cost
Refrigerator (1/4 HP) 500
Freezer (1/4 HP) 600
Sump Pump 800
Water Pump (1 HP) 1900
Water Pump (2 HP) 2500
Table Fan 800
Window Air Conditioner 1200
Central Air (10k BTU)* 1500
Central Air (24k BTU)* 3800
Central Air (40k BTU)* 6000
Computer System: CPU, Monitor, Laser Printer 1500
UPS System 2000
CD Player 100
VCR 100
Radio 100
Television 300
Receiver 420
Microwave 800
Blender 300
Coffee Maker 1500
Electric Plate (1 element) 1500
Toaster (2-slice) 1000
Dishwasher (Hot Dry) 1500
Electric Oven 3410
Iron 1200
Washing Machine 1150
Gas Clothes Dryer 700
Electric Clothes Dryer 5400
Hand Drill (1/4 inch) 350
Hand Drill (1/2 inch) 600
Skill Saw (7.25 inch) 1800
Band Saw (14 inch) 1100
Circular Saw (6.5 inch) 800
Sawzall 750
Drills (3/8 inch) 440
Air Compressor (1 HP) 1500
High-Pressure Washer (1 HP) 1200
Submersible Pump (400 gph) 200
Electric Chainsaw (1/2 HP) 900
1/6 HP Motor 300
1/4 HP Motor 400
1/3 HP Motor 475
1/2 HP Motor 650
3/4 HP Motor 900
1 HP Motor 1000
1-1/2 HP Motor 1700
5 HP Motor 5000
Hair Dryer 1200
Electric Water Heater* 4000
Don't rely on these results without understanding the limitations. For example, your computer might use more or less electricity than my computer.
RESOURCES
http://michaelbluejay.com/
http://www.generatorsales.com/
Thursday, August 2, 2007
WHY YOU SHOULD PREFER THE INVERTER
- THE INVERTER IS FREE FROM THE USUAL NOISE POLLUTION INHERENT IN GENERATORS.
- IT IS EQUALLY DEVOID OF AIR POLLUTANT ASSOCIATED WITH GENERATORS.
THERE IS NO NEED TO WORRY ABOUT FUEL. - IT CAN BE MANUFACTURED LOCALLY AND ONE WOULD READILY FIND IMPORTED ONES AROUND.
- THE INVERTER MODULE IS COMPACT AND CAN BE POSITIONED EASILY.
DISADVATAGES
- THE EFFICIENCY OF THE INVERTER IS DETERMINED BY THE SIZE AND AH-RATING OF THE BATTERY CONNECTED TO IT.
- THE SIZE AND VALUES OF COMPONENTS USED DETERMINES THE MAXIMUM LOAD THAT CAN BE DRAWN FROM THE INVERTER.
HOWEVER YOU CAN SPECIFY THE TYPE YOU WANT BY FURNISHING THE MANUFACTURER WITH THE SIZE OF YOUR EQUIPMENT AND THE TOTAL LOAD YOU WOULD BE DEMANDING.
MOST LOCALLY MADE INVERTERS TODAY IN NIGERIA THAT WILL CARRY THE SAME LOAD AS THE POPULAR GASOLINE 650VA GENERATORS GOES FOR BETWEEN N5,000 TO N10,000 ($40-$80). AND ALL THE ADDITIONAL COST FOR MAINTENACE AND FUELING ARE NO LONGER NECESSARY.
IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN GETTING ONE CONTACT ME-
OJO ADEBIYI D
08053622442
ojoadebiyi@gmail.com
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